Paul Eagle brings nature in when installing polygons all t wall, polycarbonate sheets, ensure you follow the recommended installation instructions or consult with your local professional colleague, also offers technical support for your convenience. So, let's get started before beginning checked out. All of the required parts are present, including polygon sheets, sealing tape, edge profiles, base and cap profiles. Screws and seals do as much prep work as possible on the ground before installation takes place overhead. This minimizes excess labor saves time and is generally a good safety practice. Avoid stepping on the sheets after installation, as this is dangerous and can also damage the sheets. If you need to store the sheets and profiles outdoors prior to installation, make sure they are covered with a non PVC tarp polygon sheets are UV protected on one side indicated by the protective film printed with the polygon logo, so be sure that this side is uppermost. Be sure to remove the plane protective film from the underside of the sheet Paul Eagle sheets can be cut. Using a fine, toothed circular saw ensure the cut lengths fit the structure with a minimal overlap, pull the protective film back at least 10 centimeters around the entire perimeter of the sheet and install the vent tape on both ends of the sheet to seal off the open. Flutes and pre-drill aluminum profiles, if needed. If you are installing polygons in an arched configuration, take into careful consideration, the coal bending of the sheets and profiles profile should be cut longer than the sheets. The ends can subsequently be aligned using an electric saw when installation is complete. Ask your local representative or technical support person for the minimum, bending radius of sheets and profiles when installing polygons as a roof or canopy system, be sure that your minimum slope is at least 10 percent during installation. Make absolutely sure the sheet flutes go in the direction of the slope for proper drainage and moisture evaporation once installation has begun, ensure proper alignment and placement for subsequent sheets and profiles keep in mind that the lower edge of the sheet should project slightly over the edge Of the lower joist, the base profile should be fastened to the structures, rafter or purling. Supports. Fastener location should be as close to the middle of the base profile as possible when securing it to the structure before installing the screws, through the sheet into the rafter or purlins, make sure to pre-drill holes slightly larger than your fastening screws to allow for thermal expansion And also allow for the gasket or spacer between the base profile and the structure, if needed after securing the base, profile and sheets. The cap profile should be installed when using polycarbonate profiles be sure that the cap profiles securely locks into the base profile for aluminum profiles. Ensure that the cap is firmly screwed to the base with proper stainless steel, self tapping screws and EPDM gaskets as well repeat this process until installation is complete and secure. The last step in the installation process is to remove the printed protective film as soon as possible. Do not leave this film on the polycarbonate as extended exposure to the sun's rays will make it nearly impossible to remove. In closing, please remember that these are only general guidelines for installing polygala products and are not a substitute for the detailed installation. Instructions available on the polygon website or professional advice from your polygon distributor. Paul ego brings nature in

Choosing Lexan or Plexiglass

This week we're going to review the differences between Plexiglas and lexan, two of the most popular products we use for windshields doors and the light in our home-built aircraft, which one is better, which one should you choose? Let'S take a look one way to tell these apart is to perform a little test here. I have two sheets same size same thickness. This sheet is polycarbonate. This piece is acrylic, I'm going to start with the polycarbonate, I'm going to place it into a standard sheet, metal bending break and I'm going to attempt to put a 90 degree Bend into it. These are at room temperature. Let'S give it a try, and you see our polycarbonate allowed us to cold form, it very nice. It'S spraying back. I try. I give it a 90 degree bend in it spring back. Let'S try this now with the acrylic sheet. That does not then very very brittle. In comparison on this aircraft, the windshield is made of Plexiglas Plexiglas is a trade name for the material acrylic. The door is made of lexan lexan is a trade name for the material polycarbonate. Why were two different materials used on this aircraft? One for the windshield one for the door. Well, that was a decision made by the Builder. Let'S take a look at the differences in properties of these two materials, so we can decide which is best for our purposes. Let'S make a side-by-side comparison of the two materials. So we can understand their strengths and weaknesses. Neither of these products wins the prize for providing the best answer to your needs. Let'S start with strength. The bending break demo, you saw provides evidence that polycarbonates cannot be broken. This stuff is used for bulletproof glass. You literally cannot tear it close to indestructible as it gets. Acrylic cannot hold a candle to this particular property, something I call workability as a builder. You have to cut and drill these materials to make them fit your aircraft. You can cut and drill polycarbonate with any tool you desire. You will not have to worry about damaging the material as you cut and drill simple acrylics are another story. Drilling acrylics means using a special drill bit that will not stress the plastic and result in cracks same with cutting once a crack starts. It will propagate through the entire piece and action is taken. It is not uncommon for installed acrylic windshields to develop cracks later in life due to stresses around mounting holes and edges that produce stress, risers, follow carefully the manufacturers rules regarding drilling and cutting, and these concerns can all be reduced or eliminated damage from chemical exposures. This refers to how these plastics react with chemicals that come in contact with them. A big concern to aircraft builders is that polycarbonate does not tolerate gasoline or other petroleum. Distillates acrylic is much more forgiving. If gasoline comes in contact with polycarbonate for some length of time, it will splinter and fog up having a fueling neck in the vicinity of a polycarbonate is not a good idea. Resistance to scratches this is where acrylic Wynn's polycarbonate is soft and scratches are more easily formed compared to acrylic and, unlike acrylic, they cannot be buffed or sanded out. This is why many windshields do not use polycarbonate, also appearance. Karley carbonate will discolor from UV over the years unless a special coating is included. Acrylic does not have this failing. If you appreciate these characteristics, you are in good shape to choose wisely for the application at hand. There are millions of motorcycles on the road today find out what percentage of their windscreens use acrylic versus polycarbonate as a material. Your research can include checking your own bike. Looking at your neighbors using Google or checking with manufacturer, there is some wisdom in understanding what percentage is using one material over another, both polycarbonate and acrylic come in sheets four by eight is also a very typical size to purchase and your best value. They come in. Various thicknesses, based on your application, needs and they're available at your home builder supply store or at plastic suppliers. They come with a film that gets peeled off and that protects obviously the surface until you're done cutting and drilling they're, pretty close in price to each other. That is acrylic and polycarbonate, though the acrylic is a bit cheaper. This aircraft door is made of acrylic plexiglass and if you notice, it has a nice curved bubble and that started off its life as a sheet, but then was formed into a bubble using heat vacuum and a form at the factory, and that gives us very nice Shapes that remain nice and rigid same with the windshields that you see formed into complex curves. You remember our bending break demonstration between acrylic and polycarbonate. Remember this door was made of acrylic and we know that acrylic can and does, shatter and tear, and that's exactly what happened to this door. So keep in mind if there is a possibility of breakage that maybe acrylic is not always the best where, as a polycarbonate, which is virtually unparalleled, would not have broken like this. So just trying to depend on your application as to what the best material is for any given situation. This door opened in flight, and that was the result of the violent air turbulence through it. So in this example, possibly a better choice - and this is up to the Builder - would be to make this out of a polycarbonate which would not have been able to tear like this did so remember. You do have a choice as to the best material for your aircraft, understand the properties and you can make the best decision. There'S a future in plastics. Somebody used to say enough of this. Everyone back to building you


Sunken Greenhouse - framing, polycarbonate install how to

This video brought to you by backwoods home magazine, hey there guys welcome back today, is going to be part three of the sunken green house project and, as you can see behind me, it's really starting to take shape. I'M so excited because for so long it's just been a hole in the ground and really pretty ugly, but I have been able to get all the framing up and paint it and get the polycarbonate panels on and get it closer or almost to the point where I can use it as a greenhouse, so let me show you all the steps that I've taken to get to this point and then, after that I will grab the camera walk you around just so you can kind of see the exterior facade and then I'll. Take you down into the greenhouse to show you a couple of things. I'Ve done and talked about a few of the other things I still haven't done or things that I need to do. The first step in making my roof structure was to build a ridge beam. I'M carrying it to the greenhouse right here, it's made of three 12-foot long, two by sixes and I bolted them and screwed them together. Once the beam was leveled and braced in place. The next step was to build supports at the end and then fill the middles with Raptors. This beam will eventually have a middle support, but I don't have it just yet now, I'm attaching the doorframe to the block, columns, fitting the door in and checking for a good fit after that was finished. It was time for a little paint and boy. I'M glad. I bought this sprayer when we built our house and right here, I'm installing the frame for what will be one of two or three vent windows, I'm not exactly sure where the second third one will go, but at least we know where this one is and to Cover the greenhouse, I'm using tough text, polycarbonate panels that I got at my local Lowe's. I chose these panels for a variety of reasons, but probably the main reason is because they are so resistant to extreme temperatures. Additionally, these panels are supposed to be extremely durable and rugged, but they do require some special care during installation. Specifically, you need to pre-drill holes before sinking the screws. This will aid in helping prevent micro cracks from forming years down the road. As for placing the screws for horizontal surfaces like roofs, you're going to want to place them on the Crown's of the ridges, and if something is going to be under flashing or in vertical surfaces, you can place the screws with in the valleys and to trim the Panels it was super easy, as I just used a circular saw with a reversed plywood blade and for the edges of the roof. I added galvanized flashing to give it a clean look as well as to aid in wind and weather resistance, and on a side note, I think I found the first manufacturer that actually installs stickers that can be torn off easily and now. Let'S take a look at a few final shots of the exterior of the greenhouse and then I'll. Take you inside it and talk about a few things I have coming up and here's a quick little look at my landscaping through they work hard. They tilt ask for too much. Okay, now that we're inside the greenhouse, you can definitely tell it feels much more like your greenhouse and I'll tell you temperature-wise. It definitely feels more like your greenhouse, it's almost a bit humid in here, but overall it feels pretty nice. So the most obvious change that you won't noticed is I added a door. I just framed it up attached it to the columns with those bolts that I had sunk in when I was building the columns and then just framed out a door, and I covered it in the same polycarbonate panels that I did the whole structure with. I don't have a handle or latch yet, but that'll that'll probably be in my to do list. Ah, the next thing in here that I had meant to do was this ridge beam up here. I have it's probably about seventeen and a half feet long, and I do intend to pour concrete, footer right here and install some sort of interior support. It doesn't really sag or anything right now, but over time. It is something that you do want to have. I don't want a longer than a seven or eight foot span without some sort of support, so that will probably be in the next part as well. So let me take you to the other side of the greenhouse and the most obvious things here are going to be the little vent door that you see up here. I don't have a latch for that and I don't have a polycarbonate panel on it just yet, and the other portion is this little vent hole. I talked about this in a couple of the other. I guess parts. This is something that probably not going to address for at least a month or two so I'll probably have the last greenhouse video up and then I'll just do this. When I have time but like I said before, it's just going to be basically I'm going to trench a long trench, maybe 150 feet it's going to come out at the bottom of a hillside and hopefully it's going to direct a thermally cooled air into the screen House during the summer and thermally warm tear air into the greenhouse during the winter, but anyway right now it's just a hole in the concrete, and if it does look like it's not quite a straight line, this is just from my foam support when I poured that Concrete it it just sagged, it's not currently sagging right. Now, it's structural. It'S got a but a bunch of rebar in it. So let me take you to the next part, okay, so the next issue at hand. I feel like these videos are starting to look the same, but these steps - this is still kind of my nemesis. I said that I had planned on doing some sort of gap yawns or something up either side and then building some formed concrete steps or something like that. I am still not sure what I want to do. I may end up doing some sort of railroad tie thing on the sides and then tying them into those dead man anchors that I spoke up before and speaking of that this wall, where you had those where I showed you this little PVC pipes last time, they Still have exposed PVC pipes and I'm trying to be realistic with myself right now and I'm probably not going to get those finished for a while. Now, I'm probably just going to leave these this wall be the way it is just for this coming up summer. Just so I can get onto some other projects and that's pretty much it so I hope this updated. You guys. I really did not intend for this to be a part three or four or five part series, but it probably is going to be part four or four parts, so the fourth part will probably be like landscaping. These stairs and oai needed add another event up in this top of the ridge. I just didn't have time to do it right now, but that will be kind of what the next phases of this greenhouse and then maybe building some shelving. So I hope it was informative and hopefully maybe it gave you guys some ideas of things and you can see my chickens trying to explore in the background and then, if that's all, then I guess we'll see you guys next time and thanks for watching, if you Like this video, please give it a thumbs up, and if you like, do-it-yourself projects and other self-reliance oriented topics, please consider subscribing for more future videos, see ya.